Durango, CO to Ouray, CO (really Silverton)
51.6m
This day's route was supposed to run from Durango, over three mountain passes, to Ouray. JT and I only made it over two of them and sagged the last 20 miles.
It looked like we might get off to an early start for a change, but then I decided that I really needed a new front tire. My original tire had a little warp in it and it seemed to be getting worse. Rather than take a chance I had a new one put on, which delayed us a bit.
JT was feeling better and the first 17 miles were fairly flat and easy. The first rest stop appeared at the start of 20 miles of climbing. It was hot and I was glad I brought my spf45. I saw a couple rubbing chapstick on each other's faces, so I gave them some sunscreen. I was also carrying a jacket in my jersey pocket and I wasn't sure that was going to be worth it. Thankfully I held on to it.
Approaching the first rest stop.
The climb was gradual but continuous until we reached the Pergatory Ski Area. There it leveled out for a few miles until the climb up Coal Bank Pass, which was a slow grind for me, but not nearly as bad as Slumgullion.
On the way to Coal Bank Pass
There was a short descent and then another climb to Molas Pass. The clouds rolled in as we climbed and then the rains came. Cold rains. When we reached the lunch stop at the top there were groups of shivering cyclists huddled together under the little shelter that there was. Some people apparently felt that it was more important that their bikes stay dry than other people get warm, so much of the precious cover was occupied by bikes lying on their sides. I was glad I had my rain jacket, I wasn't so sure about my sunscreen.
A Horseshoe bend between the passes
Typical scenery climbing Molas Pass.
A nasty lunch break
After eating and waiting around for a while, JT and I decided to continue. It didn't look like the weather was going to get any better and there was a town (Silverton) at the bottom of the hill. We just had to coast on down there.
It was a miserable descent. I got well ahead of JT but then I had to stop to thaw my hands, which were aching from the braking, and numb from the cold. I joined a couple of other riders under a tree and waited for the rain to lighten up a little. JT must have stopped too because he didn't catch me. When I finally turned the corner onto the main drag of Silverton I was met by an apparition. A young man in a gas station uniform was calling to me..."Free coffee, clean restrooms for riders!" Just then the sun broke through the clouds. The young man was Malcolm, the guy who ran the Fina station in Silverton. If I ever go back there, I'm gonna buy gas at that station, even if I don't need any.
Silverton. Malcom's gas station is at the bottom center.
I took advantage of Malcom's hospitality and laid out my wet gloves to dry on the ice machine. JT came down the hill about 20 minutes later and joined me in paradise. The weather was improving in Silverton, but off to the north toward Red Mountain Pass the sky was dark and threatening. JT and I took a ride around town and saw that there were quite a few cyclists on the streets and in the pubs. We also got a close look at the Durango and Silverton Railroad.
A little engine
Shortly after arriving we'd received word that there had been a mudslide on the Red Mountain Pass and that no one was getting through. Still, several riders started out up the road. We didn't. We'd had enough misery for one day. Eventually the clouds rolled back in to Silverton and we jumped into a sag wagon mere minutes before a massive thunderstorm broke. Lightning hit close enough to the van to raise a few arm hairs. Then we started up the hill, passing several riders in the rain.
We were starting down the other side when we were held up by the mudslide. It took about 15 minutes for us to get around it and then we drove down some of the most breathtaking roads I've ever seen. Too bad I don't have any pictures. Too bad we weren't riding.
That's a fairly impressive mudslide if you ask me.
It wasn't raining when we reached Ouray, which looked like a nice little town, but we didn't get to spend any time there. The campground was just down the road. Space was tight and nearly everyone was already there. We found some space and set up on the wet ground. Our bags had kept our gear out of the rain, but water had condensed on the insides of the bags and some of our gear was wet anyway. We showered and ate and turned in early. It rained during the night and my drop cloth had somehow sneaked out from under my tent. I was only kept out of a pool of water by my sleeping pad. Needless to say it was not a restful night.