Day 13
Friday, 11 June 2004
North Bend, OR to Humbug Mountain State Park, OR
68.0 miles, 4h58m, 13.7 mph
Elapsed Time: 7h35m, Max speed: 40.7mph
Total Climbing: 2979ft, Max elevation: 590ft
Total mileage: 751.7



We got a late start because we were watching President Reagan's funeral
on TV. Since we are on the west coast we were able to tear ourselves
away from the set before 9:30 and hit the road.
The weather was cool--not cool enough to need a jacket, but cool enough
to want one. It was overcast but it didn't look like it was going to
rain anytime soon. We stopped in the small fishing village of
Charleston for our first break.

Life in Charleston goes on, much as it did in the late 20th Century.
After Charleston, the route took us into up onto a ridge line that had
been pretty well cleansed of any large trees. The road was not as good
as other logging roads we've ridden on, but it was more pleasant than
101. The guy at the bike shop the other day said that the logging
companies aren't as good to the earth here in Oregon as they are in
Washington. I would have to agree. Much of this land has been clear cut
and many areas appear not to have been replanted.

Of course, if the trees were still there there would be no view.
Eventually we returned to US101 and rode into a cute little town called
Bandon. We had lunch at a bakery. JT bought a big sticky bun that he
carried with him for the rest of the day. JT's camera started acting up
so he stopped at the Radio Shack for a new battery. But it turns out
the problem is most likely related to sand exposure during our day in
the dune country among the sand people, of whom we will not speak.

Downtown Bandon. The Radio Shack is on the right...somewhere.
By the way, I have heard that people have responded to the bird naming
challenge. The results will be announced tomorrow when I will once
again have Internet access. By the time you read this it will be
tomorrow, and today will be yesterday.
After lunch something strange happened. The sky turned a funny blue
color and the temperature increased. At first we were alarmed, but then
half-forgotten memories of riding in British Columbia came back. It was
sunny!

Distrustful of this "sunshine," Bob keeps his jacket on.
I should mention here that while in Florence I spent $100 on a new rain
jacket. My old one basically did nothing to keep me dry. I have not
been struck by a drop of moisture since that purchase. I hope that the
cycling gods have been satisfied by my financial sacrifice, and the
jacket shall remain unneeded.
Once the sun came out, the coast suddenly looked much prettier. So we
started taking pictures of rocks.

This one is called "Face Rock." I don't know why.

These rocks don't have names. Let's call them George.
We returned to US101 and started flying along. The road was rolling and
we had an awesome tailwind. We flew into Langlois (no idea how to
pronounce it) and stopped for a snack. JT called his folks and I called
Linda from a pay phone. "Can you hear me now?" No. Our Verizon phones
don't seem to work in this little corner of Oregon. If you try to make
a call you are transferred to the "Roaming America Network" or some
such
entity. Then a voice tells you to punch in the number you're trying to
call. So you do. Then it tells you again. I think they charge you for
this little game. So it's pay phones until further notice.

Here's proof that we had a tailwind.
While we sat at Langlois a couple on heavily loaded touring bikes went
by. We caught up with them a few minutes after we restarted, but there
was no time to say more than "Hi." Later, they caught back up with us
when we stopped at Port Orford for food to take to the campground. They
were European, probably German or Dutch, and were on a three week tour
to Crescent City and back to Portland. They were also camping at Humbug
Mountain that night.
The last few miles to the campground were stunning. This must be the
kind of stuff we have been missing because of the rain.

That's Humbug Mountain.
There was already a German couple in another Hiker/Biker campsite at
the campground when we got there, and the couple we met on the road got
there a little after we finished setting up. It is possible that we may
speak to them and find out where they're going and where they're from,
but I wouldn't count on it. It's getting cold.

Our campsite in the shade.
Tomorrow we're riding about 50 miles along the coast to Brookings. It
should be spectacular. That will be our last full day in Oregon.
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"JT and BC's 2004 Pacific
Coast
Ride" Copyright © 2004 By Bob Clemons. All rights reserved.