Day 6
Friday, 4 June 2004
Aberdeen, WA to Cape Disappointment State Park, WA
89.0 miles, 7h05m, 12.5 mph
Elapsed Time: 10h22m, Max speed: 36.2mph
Total Climbing: 3231ft, Max elevation: 529ft
Total mileage: 389.0
Today was supposed to be the last day of good weather so we decided
that we would camp at Cape Disappointment State Park on the north shore
of the Columbia River. But first we had to ride a considerable
distance. Somehow I computed the distance to be 72 miles. Between the
detours and backtracking we somehow managed to cover almost 90 miles.
There may have been a "carry-the-one" error in there somewhere too.
The first 25 miles from Aberdeen to Raymond on US101 were very hilly
with little traffic. Probably half of the vehicles on the road were
logging trucks. Fortunately, most of the loaded trucks were heading in
the other direction. There were three places where a lane was closed so
traffic was controlled by a flagman. This had the effect of grouping
all the cars and trucks together and giving us long periods of peace.
The scenery was typical of the timber country.
Typical timber country scenery.
We stopped in Raymond for a snack and rode on to nearby South Bend to
buy lunch. There aren't many towns between South Bend and the end of
our ride, so we figured we'd carry our lunch for a while. We rode all
the way through South Bend without finding a deli, so we had to ride
all the way back to the other end of town and bought sandwiches at a
convenience store. Then we got to see the town again. By the way, South
Bend claims to be the "Oyster Capital of the World." At this point
broken oyster shell fragments became common shoulder debris, almost
replacing the tree bark that falls off the timber trucks.
This must be where the oysters come from.
There were few hills after Raymond, but we encountered something much
worse--a brutal headwind. With hills you see what you have to deal with
and when you get to the top you're done. Hills are an honest obstacle.
The wind is very different. When you are riding on the flats, it pushes
you backward, making you work hard to go slower than you would without
the wind. When going downhill you can feel it robbing you of the free
ride you earned with the climb. When climbing the wind usually goes
away--because it might help to cool you off. The biggest problem with
the wind is that you know all these things and you know how much faster
you could be going with less work. The best thing about a headwind is
that the roaring in your ears covers the squeaking and clicking sounds
that your bike is making.
We passed a sign for a county park about the time that we decided to
eat. It turns out that the park was about 3 miles away at the end of
the road in a little oyster community with the unlikely name of Bay
Center. When we got to the park we found a picnic table and were
immediately attacked by swarms of hungry mosquitos. Then we pedaled
back to US101 and continued on our way.
Eventually we rolled into Ilwaco, the small town outside of Cape
Disappointment State Park. Since it was already getting late we decided
to eat dinner before setting up camp. There only appeared to be one
good restaurant in town so we went in and ordered. In the back there
was a group that had some kind of problem and the owner was
apologizing. When they came out we found that that group was just
beginning a ride on the Lewis and Clark Trail. We saw them again later
at the campground. There were six of them riding with one driving the
sag wagon every day. That's the way to do it.
Anyway back to the restaurant. Apparently everybody working there was
new because the season was just beginning and it's hard to find good
help. I ordered a Grilled Seafood Special but the chef couldn't find
any fillets so I changed to a Prime Rib, which is what JT ordered. When
they came out an hour later they were cold in the center. In the end we
got our steaks for very little money, and the time didn't really matter
to us.
There were a few hills on the way to the park. We rode to the
campground and set up our tents. The showers cost 50 cents for 3
minutes so I had to ride back to the camp store to get change. JT's
shower was cold anyway, but mine was hot.
Our campsite was about 50 yards from the ocean, so we went down there
and took about 30 pictures.
Our first look at the Pacific.
There was this lighthouse.
Our campsite.
It started raining at about 9 o'clock and it rained on and off all
night.
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"JT and BC's 2004 Pacific
Coast
Ride" Copyright © 2004 By Bob Clemons. All rights reserved.