PC_Day2

Day 2

Monday, 31 May 2004
Victoria, BC to Anacortes, WA
50.1 miles, 3h51m, 13.0 mph
Elapsed Time: 8h39m, Max speed: 42.7mph
Total Climbing: 2441ft, Max elevation: 335ft
Total mileage: 115.1

(Profile only for San Juan Island)

Day Two should prove to be the most logistically complex day of the entire ride. There were supposed to be three riding segments (kind of like Day One), but there would be an international border crossing thrown in for good measure.

We got underway at about 8am, riding back up the Lochside Trail out of Victoria toward Sidney. At Sidney we would take a Washington State Ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. We'd do a loop around the island and then jump back on another ferry for Anacortes, where we would spend the night. It was critically important that we make our first ferry connection since there is only one boat from Sidney to Friday Harbor every day. Linda had to get the Suburban there by 10:10am for a boat that left at 11:40. JT and I could get there pretty much any time before the boat left, but we wanted to be there early too.

The ride up to Sidney was uneventful. We talked for a while with a group of riders that was on Day One of a trans-Canada ride that was to end in St. John's, Newfoundland on August 22nd. The Lochside Trail seems to be one of those cycling crossroads where lots of long-distance riders converge.

We reached the ferry terminal at about 10am, breezed through US immigration, and started waiting. Yesterday our combined ferry waiting and riding times amounted to 2 hours and 10 minutes. This ferry alone added another 3 hours.

Finally the boat arrived. Then we got to sit and stare at it for a half hour before we were allowed on. One small advantage of walking on to a ferry in the northwest is that the pedestrians get to embark and debark before the vehicles. That way you can wait on the boat for the cars to load, and you can find a nice quiet seat so that a family of six with a screaming toddler can sit down at the next table. The only quiet on those ferries is outside, where it is very cold.

Bob and JT: Outside and cold.

So we said goodbye to Canada and its extremely courteous drivers and funny $2 coins. And hello to the US with its cheap gas and boring green currency.

The weather was just like yesterday: cool and breezy with a chance of showers. It got pretty nasty during the boat ride but only spit a little rain. When we arrived on San Juan Island the sun came out, but it was still cool.

Downtown Friday Harbor on Memorial Day

It took a little while to get through customs since we were near the end of a line of 30-odd people. The customs officer asked us if we had receipts for our bikes, and of course we didn't. She let us go anyway. Linda had a little more trouble with the Suburban since she was hauling gear for people who weren't with her (but were only a few feet away). Her customs person poked around in JT's luggage a little bit--until she found the dirty clothes.

Learning nothing from yesterday, we once again skipped lunch in favor of progress, because we felt good. This time it was me who started fading at the end. Tomorrow we're eating lunch for sure (we hope to ride 100 miles).

We planned three stops on San Juan Island: the English Camp, Lime Kiln State Park, and the American Camp. The two camps were the garrison sites for the opposing sides in the famous Pig War. This was a 19th century border dispute between England and the US that was initiated by the killing of an English pig by an American farmer, who caught the pig rooting in his garden. One thing led to another and war was narrowly averted--mostly because going to war over a pig seemed absurd. Wars have been fought over less--but maybe not. Anyway, both sides agreed to garrison the island until an arbitrator could work out who should get the island, and the camps are preserved in a national park.

We rode across the island to the English Camp, and were immediately impressed with the beauty of the place. San Juan makes Saltspring Island look like a suburb. There are farms and nice homes, and very little development (actually none that I noticed). The island is quite hilly but there was only one major climb on this first leg. The English Camp was down on the water at the end of a steep gravel road, and featured a few old buildings and some incredibly old trees. I forgot to take my camera down the hill so there are no pictures.

Next we climbed out of there and rode down the Westside Drive to Lime Kiln State Park. This is supposed to be a big whale watching site, but there was nothing going on while we were there. There is this cool lighthouse and some nice views.

Lighthouse at Lime Kiln Point.

Looking north from Lime Kiln Point.

The road leading to the Park was hilly and featured in a nature-preserve-like section with big trees and no homes. The road after the Park ran along the coast and was wide open.

I take most of these pictures while I'm moving.
That's why there are roads in them.

Here's a dirt one.

The American Camp is at the southern end of the island, which is less hilly than the north end, but the effects of skipping lunch were beginning to show and I was fading (also there was a head wind). Still, we got there.

The American Camp.

It was a quick ride back to Friday Harbor from the American Camp. The next boat was to leave at 6:45pm so Linda lined the Suburban up at the terminal and we loaded the bikes inside, figuring we wouldn't have to pay for them like we did on the first ride. But these people are smart. We already had paid for the round trip when we came over. Everybody gets off the island for free. D'oh!

We ate dinner at a pub near the terminal. I tried a strange beer called Ale Diablo, which was brewed with a blend of peppers. It tasted like black pepper and jalapenos mixed with...beer. It was JT's birthday, but he wouldn't have a beer.

The ferry came in late and didn't reach Anacortes until 8:30pm, so we just drove to the motel rather than ride the five miles in the light rain and increasing darkness. After checking in we dashed across the street to the Pizza Factory, which was about to close, but made us a pizza anyway. Apparently they roll the town up at 9 o'clock, so we were lucky to get our second dinner. If you're ever in Anacortes and it's getting late, run to the Pizza Factory and they'll take care of you.

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